Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Review In Focus: Crystal Clear Results

They do say that you never forget your first love. I won’t go into details about my actual 1st love (it’s fairly uninteresting – we’re still married!), but I will tell you about my first retinol product love.

Considering this was my first anxious step into the retinol world, and in my opinion, the best one I’ve tried, I thought it high time I wrote a Medik8 Crystal Retinal Review.

I’ve always been attracted to Medik8 as a brand. I’ve had this hang-up for years about not being cool or trendy enough for many things……pubs, bars, certain clothing shops (mainly because I’m not!) and weirdly that also applies, in my head, to some skincare brands……but not Medik8.

If you’re a busy mum in the market for a retinol product, does Medik8’s Crystal Retinal range tick all the boxes? After all, it’s not enough to just allow a 40-something, mum of 3 not to worry about using their products despite being an awkward dork!

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The Brand

With Medik8 there are no buzzwords, cute phrases, or suggestions that you are more likely to get laid this coming Saturday by using their products (I will say there is the occasional phrase, mostly that contains the word “power”, that sounds like an  evil genius from the 80s)

Instead, they give you the facts, with all the science needed to back up their claims. Within seconds of being on their website’s homepage, you can tell their USP is anti-ageing, specifically with their use of retinol-based products. 

Their philosophy is based on the CSA concept – Vitamin C and Sunscreen am, and Vitamin A (retinol) pm. Simples! Using this easy-to-follow recipe, we can be confident we have all the bases covered. 

This cuts out all the noise that other brands bombard us with (“You absolutely must buy this ExtremeMax VeilBubble MultiBlur Sphincter Cream for Left Ear Lobes, otherwise your child will always struggle without bicycle stabilisers”) and is perfect for us busy mums who just want a quiet and easy life!!

Bit of a Background

For you to understand this product, which is my ultimate goal, you will need an understanding of retinoids, aka Vitamin A. 

Retinoids are categorised, and sold, in four primary groups: retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde (aka retinal) and retinoic acid. They all work by binding to and activating retinoic acid receptors in our skin, which in turn alters our skin’s DNA to change appearance and texture.

But….and it’s a big but…..out of those four primary groups, it is only retinoic acid that our skin’s retinoic acid receptors can use – no surprise there really when you think about it! 

The other 3 groups of retinoids – retinyl esters, retinol and retinaldehyde – all need to convert into retinoic acid to activate those retinoic acid receptors and work their magic. The further away from retinoic acid the retinoid group is, the more conversions they have to take to get there.

Unfortunately, the more conversions they take to get to retinoic acid, the weaker the product gets, and I say unfortunately because these weaker products come with less irritation.

This post of mine here goes into a lot more detail about what retinoids are, however, they say a picture paints a thousand words, and considering it would take me at least a thousand words to fully explain retinoids for this Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 review post…….I’ve created a picture:

Related Post: How to Apply Retinol for Beginners – The Ultimate Guide

Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Review – The Product Overview

So, back to the Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Review! Where the heck does this product fit in it all? Well, the answer comes down to one letter that makes all the difference – “a”. 

Notice it’s name is Crystal RetinAl and not Crystal RetinOl. This tells us the product is a retinAldehyde and therefore one conversion away from retinoic acid.

We can see from my graphic that this is the strongest retinoid we can buy Over-the-counter (OTC), but that also means it’s the retinoid with the highest risk of irritation we can buy OTC. 

Studies prove Retinaldehyde’s efficacy (one showing that it is 11 times faster acting than retinol, thereby giving you the results faster), however, along with it bringing more problems with irritation, the other downside of retinaldehyde is that it is notoriously tricky to keep stable.

This is the reason why there’s not a huge amount of retinaldehyde products out there (and some…..ok all, eyewateringly expensive)

Medik8 have dealt with both these issues, however, and has developed a “delicate crystal-shaped encapsulation system”. This keeps the product stable and also allows it to slowly release into the skin over time rather than in one big hit.

What we have is a stable product that has the highest strength we can buy without a prescription but without the known issues of side effects. There’s no surprise really that Medik8 have got the popularity they have in the skincare world!

Medik8’s Crystal Retinal goes further by giving us a choice of 5 strengths:

• Crystal Retinal 1 (available for those with very sensitive skin)
• Crystal Retinal 3 (recommended by Medik8 to start here and work up))
• Crystal Retinal 6
• Crystal Retinal 10
• Crystal Retinal 20 (available through consultation with Medik8’s clinics only)

The eagle-eyed among you will have noticed this review is based on the Crystal Retinal 3 – the advised starting strength.

Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Claims

So what does Medik8 claim this product will do for us? Well, the central claims are what we know retinoids in general do for us, which independent study after independent study concurs. 

There are a few extra claims due to the other ingredients in this product…..but more of that later, as for now here is a reminder of what retinoids do for our skin, pulled directly from Medik8’s website:

• It increases collagen synthesis and prevents its breakdown for plumper, more youthful-looking skin.
• It increases proliferation (cell turnover) for a smoother skin surface.
• It decreases melanin production for an even skin tone.
• It reduces sebum production to minimise blemish formation.
• It helps with UV repair, contrary to popular belief

Related Post:
How to Apply Retinol for Beginners – The Ultimate Guide

The Star Ingredients

Retinal – see above

Tocopheryl Acetate – An antioxidant Vitamin E that is a slightly different version of the purer version of Tocopheryl. This version is more commonly used in cosmetics as it is more stable with a longer shelf life – unfortunately, it does not get absorbed as well by the skin and may not have the same photoprotective impact as pure Vitamin E.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid – An antioxidant and skin brightener, which is a stable form of Vitamin C that also offers collagen-boosting benefits. Unlike traditional Vitamin C, which can quickly lose effectiveness due to instability, EAC remains potent over time.

It’s a smart choice for skincare, as it stays stable in both water and oil formulations.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – An antioxidant and skin brightener that is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, addressing the stability issues faced by traditional Vitamin C.

Moreover it exhibits remarkable skin penetration, outperforming pure Vitamin C threefold at the same concentration.

It also effectively reaches deep skin layers for enhanced vitamin C benefits, which are the boosting of collagen production, shielding against UVA and UVB rays and skin brightening.

Glycerin – A natural humectant moisturiser that’s in the outer layer of our skin. It is effective for moisturising dry skin but also protects against irritation and damage to the skin barrier.

Squalane – An emollient and natural moisturiser that is found in fish, plant oils and human sebum. A great moisturiser that leaves skin smooth, but not greasy or heavy as it is absorbed easily.

Sodium Hyaluronate – is both a skin-identical ingredient and a moisturiser/humectant. Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of the well-known humectant Hyaluronic Acid (HA). HA, is a substantial polymer naturally present in the skin and functions as a moisture-retaining sponge, promoting a plump and elastic complexion.

Its remarkable water-holding capacity, binding up to 1000 times its weight in water, has earned HA its fame. However, a notable distinction between the two lies in the salt forms superior stability, formulation ease, and cost-effectiveness, making it a prevalent inclusion in ingredient lists.

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract – also known as Japanese Honeysuckle, is a skin soother with antimicrobial and antibacterial properties. Recent studies have discovered its intricate chemical profile, boasting over 140 identified compounds, some of which display potential anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral and antioxidative properties.

In skincare, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract plays a dual role. Firstly, it acts as an anti-inflammatory and soothing agent, attributed to the presence of chlorogenic acid, a polyphenol believed to be the flower’s primary bioactive component.

All the Other Ingredients

Water, Caprylic/​Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Isododecane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylate/​Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, PPG-12/​Smdi Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cyclodextrin, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/​Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Retinal, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Alumina, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Polyaspartate, Pentylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 60, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, BHT, Sorbitan Isostearate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract, Coumarin, Red 4, Titanium Dioxide/​Ci 77891

Ethical Ethos

• Climate action, waste reduction, sustainability and being an ethical business are important to Medik8, and have more information on their website than I can/need to write on here. So if you want to know more about this head over to this page here.
  
  
• What I will say here is that there is no animal testing with only cruelty-free ingredients used, and all of their products are 100% vegan. 

Its Scent

• Medik8 have not marketed this product to have any scent, however, there is certainly something present……possibly from the essential oils but most likely from the added fragrance. 
  
  
• It’s a sweet smell, and the ingredients list Coumarin, which is a common skincare fragrance known for its sweet, vanilla and nutty scent. I would also say there is a slight whiff of citrus to it as well though.

Its Texture

• It has a fairly thick, whipped cream consistency but does become quite creamy and soft when it warms up on your skin. It sinks in easily and doesn’t leave you feeling sticky.
  
  
• It has what Medik8 describe as a peach colour, although if I’m being picky I’d call it more of a terracotta colour.
  
  Each strength of this product has a different tone, I’m assuming the direction is darker as it gets stronger, giving you a pretty ombre effect should you decide to collect them all and ice your cakes with it (uh…don’t!!).

Its Packaging and Use-by-Date

• It’s everything a retinoid package should be: in pump form with a non-transparent package. This keeps it hygienic and stable away from potential light sources.
  
  
• It has a simple but sleek, silver look, and I’ve pleasantly noted that it does pump out what I assume is all of the product. You can see by my photos of the 95% used tube that the last 5% is sitting right by the neck, which easily squirts out when I ask it to. 
  
  
• The use-by-date is 12 months from the point it has been opened.
  
  
• All the Crystal Retinal range is 30mls only
  
  
• Finally, forget about even trying to read anything on the tube itself……seriously the writing is almost like a dust mite stepped in white ink and then hopped all over it! Use the box and the leaflet instead.

Its Price and Purchase Locations

• Each Crystal Retinal product in this range increases in price as the strength increases.

• You can also purchase it from Amazon here.
• Other stockists include John Lewis, Sephora, Look Fantastic and Cult Beauty

Medik8 themselves have a loyalty programme which gives you 1 point per £1. I think the free birthday gift is worth a mention!

The Directions

• Medik8 do advise we do a patch test before use, so I guess I should too! Let’s be honest, we all know none of us do with skincare, but we really should when retinoids are concerned
  
  
• For new users (especially those brand new to retinoids, but also those who have increased their strength to this product), phase the usage in gradually: 
  • Twice a week for 2 weeks
  • Alternate nights for the next 2 weeks
  • Every night
  • Stay on whichever phasing-in step you are on if you have any irritation, and increase once it has passed. Retinoid usage is a marathon, not a sprint! 
    
    
• Use it in the evening only, as it will get degraded by daylight if used in the morning and you’ll waste your hard-earned pennies
  
  
• Apply after cleansing your skin, using 2 pumps all over your face and neck.
  
  
• Give it time to absorb before applying moisturiser (the longer the more effective, the shorter the lower the risk of irritation – the rule of thumb with retinoids)
  
  
• Medik8 do sell a specific moisturiser designed to work with retinoids – you can use that all find a similar product like Caudalie’s Resveratrol Lift Night Cream
  
  
• Always use sunscreen every morning when using retinoids. Really, you should be using sunscreen every morning even if you weren’t…..
  
  
• Medik8 claims you will get 3 months’ supply from 1 tube with daily use, and I’d’ say this is about right

I have gone into a huge amount of detail in this post here on how to start using retinoids if you are a beginner with plenty of information about retinoid side effects. This other post of mine gives you a comprehensive list of 17 tips on how to avoid retinoid irritation

Related Posts:
How To Avoid Retinol Purge – 17 Tips For Starting Retinol
Side Effects of Using Retinol Demystified: Your Ultimate Comprehensive Guide

Who is it For?

• For those wanting to get serious about anti-ageing. Those who have already got some “life experience” proof on their skin and want to work on preventing any further from appearing.
  
  
• Medik8 calls this a “medium strength retinal for those who have used retinol before, or a starting point for those without sensitive skin”.
  
  I completely agree with this statement, as yes, it is indeed a medium-strength retinoid product – it is a retinaldehyde after all (I refer you back to my infographic above). 
  
  
• I also agree with it being a starting point for those with sensitive skin. The product usage of the encapsulation system with the other ingredients of hyaluronic acid, glycerin and Vitamin E, keeps known retinoid irritation to a minimum. 
  
  
• Those who have had a bad experience with a retinoid in the past (but I would advise following my guide you can find here – added peace of mind!)

Related Post: When to Start Using Retinol: The Magic Age

Who is it Not For?

• Medik8 say that if you have extremely sensitive skin should start low on the Crystal Retinal 1.
  
  
• They also claim that if you have normal skin you could consider starting on Crystal Retinal 6. I would say that this is worth a shot if you have a history of not having any previous skin issues, but if you have any anxiety about it, stick with the Crystal Retinal 3. 
  
  
• If you have any problems with added fragrance, essential oils and colourants this may be a problem for you
  
  
• If you are thinking of conceiving, are currently pregnant or breastfeeding, you should avoid all retinoid products. Have a look at this post of mine here for more information about this and alternatives
  

Related Post: Exploring Safe Retinol Alternatives During Pregnancy for Glowing Skin

Alternatives and Dupes

Owing to the nature of retinaldehyde being quite unstable, there are not many products on the market, and those that are out there are not easy on the pocket. Therefore, there are only alternatives and no dupes:

• Sarah Chapman Icon Night Smartsome A3 X503 moisturiser 30mls: available at Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic and Sephora.
  
  
• MURAD Retinal ReSculpt Overnight Treatment 30mls: available at Sephora, M&S and Look Fantastic

……and The Results Are In

• The Medik8 website reviews show a rating of 4.8 stars out of 5 from 1617 reviews. All other stockists mentioned have the same results 
  
  
• 5-star comments include phrases like: “miracle cream”, “fantastic product”, and “amazing product”. A lot of the comments I read discussed how they had great results with no flare-up of their sensitive skin.
  
  
• I spent a bit of time going through the 1-star reviews and the vast majority are based on either their order taking time to be delivered, or the pump failing.
  
  There were a couple who commented on their skin becoming irritated (possibly due to having quite sensitive skin) and/or a spot outbreak, and a few who didn’t like the fact there was no improvement in their skin in a few weeks of usage (gotta be patient with retinoids!).
  
  With every 1-star review, Medik8 replied with an apology and an offer to help resolve the situation. 
  
  
• My Mum decided a few months back to give retinoids a go, having had no experience in this area of skincare whatsoever. I advised this particular brand and she rang them up to get advice on where to start. 
  
  She was really happy with the support and help they gave her, and despite having no experience with retinoids, suggested she try this particular product. She followed the phasing-in instructions and has had no irritation whatsoever, and now has just started on Crystal Retinal 6. 
  
  It’s still a little too early to see results in her skin, but I’m waiting with bated breath and will update here when I get it. 
  
  
• This was my experience too. I started out with this product and had no issues whatsoever (As it happens, I moved up through this range to the 20 and not once had any irritation, which led me to smugly think I was some sort of Demigod and would have no problems with Tretinoin……wow did I get that one wrong!).
  
  
• A creamy serum that sinks really easily into the skin. Don’t think this is a product that will leave your skin feeling a million bucks immediately like some nourishing oily serum though – after an hour or so, if you leave it that long, you’ll want to get some moisturiser on.
  
  Related posts:
  HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO SEE RESULTS WITH RETINOL?

Pros and Cons

Let’s wrap this Up

I began retinoids with this product 5 years ago when it first came out when I had just turned 40. Previous to that I had combination skin, uneven skin tone on my cheeks and struggled with quite large open pores.

The crows’ feet had certainly settled in and the creases were starting to show themselves on my forehead and between the eyes.

Five years on, and having gotten through the complete range, I can honestly say I have never been so happy with my skin. I would describe it as “normal” now, skin tone clear, bright and even, and no open pores whatsoever. 

All fine lines that had started to show themselves are genuinely gone (apart from round the eyes only when I smile), and I’m pretty chuffed that now at 45, with what is clearly perimenopause, I have no new fine lines.

I know I can put this all down to the retinoid ingredient, which in itself is not unique to Medik8, however, I do feel it’s not been a struggle at all to use owing to the formulation they have created.

Granted, it’s really not a cheap product, but considering the condition of my skin now I think it’s been worth every penny.

My only regret is not considering using the product in other areas that show age – neck, decolletage and even the backs of my hand (those take a real battering being a nurse), so I am back on the Crystal Retinal 3 with those areas and fully intend to work my way up. 

This product is by no means a quick fix. If you want to use retinoids, be prepared to be in it for the long haul. The journey, however, will be much smoother with this product

I do hope this Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Review has been helpful! Please let me know if you are thinking of giving this product a try, and if there is any further information about it, or the brand in general, I can help you with. Ask away in the comments below….

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