Retinol and Sun Exposure: Navigate them both

You and your skin have worked hard to get used to retinol products. You’ve made it through a few niggling side effects in the initial month or so, with some irritation. You have even reached your goal, or are well on your way to reaching it, by using high-strength retinol.

You may even be hardcore and have got your skin used to a prescription-strength retinoid like Tretinoin.

Joy of joys, you’ve now got baby-soft, blemish-free skin with a noticeable reduction in your fine lines and deeper wrinkles – praise be to retinol!!

But now Summer is knocking on the door. Temperatures are rising, fewer clothes are being worn and we’ve even got the BBQ out and ready to go. A sunny destination abroad is booked for the school holidays, but rather than being filled with excitement, for the first time ever it’s tinged with apprehension.

Why? Well, for all the wonders that retinol brings us, it also makes our skin more sun sensitive, and if all the advice is to be followed we will need to stop retinol entirely during this season.

But the potential of this is taking us back to square one of having to go through restarting the whole process again……of course with the prospect of that lovely irritation period again.

Or will we? Let’s look at retinol and sun exposure, in particular, how they affect the way our skin copes with the sun. What is sun sensitivity and what does the sun do to retinol?

We’ll also look at ways to look after our skin during the Summer months, in the hopes that we just may get away with not having to stop, albeit temporarily, our beloved retinol.

Table Of Contents

Retinol and Sun Exposure: How Are They Related?
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What Practical Steps Can We Take With Retinol and Sun Exposure?

Text Reads: Mastering Retinol and Sun Exposure All Year Round

Retinol and Sun Exposure: How Are They Related?

First a quick refresher on what retinol is, but I also want to touch on a bit of the background to sun sensitivity with retinol, before delving into how to deal with it.

How Does Retinol Work and What Are the Benefits to Our Skin?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products due to its beneficial effects on the skin. It works by penetrating the deeper dermis layer of our skin where it converts into retinoic acid and promotes cell turnover that encourages new cell growth.

Collagen and elastin production is increased which promotes elasticity, and new blood vessels are produced. It also inhibits tyrosinase activity, the melanin-producing enzyme, therefore reducing hyperpigmentation.

The outer layer of skin (epidermis) is thickened which minimises the effects of free radicals like UV exposure and pollution.

The collagen and elastin that are produced reduce fine lines and wrinkles and the new blood vessels improve the colour of the skin. The reduction in the melanin-producing enzyme means uneven skin tone is improved and age spots fade.

The turnover of surface cells results in dead skin cells being removed faster resulting in brighter skin, but it also prevents the dead skin cells from clogging pores thereby reducing spots, blackheads etc and improving the appearance of blemishes.

The outer new thicker layer of skin that minimises the effects of free radicals, limits the signs of sun damage. There is now evidence that it can actually inhibit some of the processes of damage that happen to our skin when it is exposed to UV.

If you want to read more about applying retinol as a beginner then have a look at this post here

Related Posts:
WHEN TO START USING RETINOL: THE MAGIC AGE
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MEDIK8 CRYSTAL RETINAL 3 REVIEW IN FOCUS: CRYSTAL CLEAR RESULTS

What is Sun Sensitivity?

Photosensitivity, also known as sun sensitivity, refers to an increased sensitivity or reaction of the skin to sunlight or other sources of ultraviolet (UV radiation.

People with photosensitivity may experience an exaggerated response to UV exposure compared to those without photosensitivity.

It can be caused by various factors, including certain medical conditions like lupus, but also genetic predispositions. Some medications (such as certain antibiotics) and skincare products (such as retinol and vitamin C), can increase photosensitivity as a side effect.

There are two types of photosensitivity:

Photoallergy which is an allergic reaction from sun exposure. This reaction can occur immediately or be delayed by a few days and is a lot less common.

Sun exposure causes the body’s immune system to think the changes are a foreign attack, so the body produces attacking antibodies. These cause a reaction which appears as a rash, red bumps and blisters
Phototoxicity is an irritation that often occurs within a few hours of sun exposure. This is the common version of photosensitivity when a drug or skincare product is activated by exposure to UV light – this is what we are focusing on in this post.

Symptoms include the classic look and feel of sunburn and typically appear on sun-exposed areas of skin.

Here is an article that explains photosensitivity in more detail.

Do Retinols Cause Photosensitivity?

Retinols work by turning over dead skin cells and promoting new healthy ones, so we used to think this resulted in a thinner outermost layer of the skin thereby reducing its natural protection against UV rays, making it more prone to photosensitivity.

It is true that retinol can disrupt the skin’s barrier function during the first few months of starting it (known as retinisation), which can make our skin more sensitive to the sun (basically retinol making sunburn symptoms worse!), but there is no evidence to say that retinol cause actual photosensitivity (as described above).

The thinking now is that what we thought was UV damage from sun exposure, is in fact Retinoid Dermatitis – the medical name for the irritative side effects of retinol.

If you think about it, sunburn symptoms are suspiciously similar to the typical retinol side effects. The other good news is that the increased risk of sunburn reduces after the first month of using retinol – again similar to the timing of retinol side effects coming to an end.

The latest research goes even further – retinol doesn’t affect the minimal dose of UV required to begin to damage the skin, and in fact, it can actually reduce some of the causes of damage that occur with UV exposure.

Obviously, that doesn’t mean we can get away with not using SPF – we should be wearing this regardless of using retinol!

If you would like to know more about the side effects associated with retinol, do hop over to this post here.

Related posts:
SIDE EFFECTS OF USING RETINOL DEMYSTIFIED: YOUR ULTIMATE COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE
EXPLORING SAFE RETINOL ALTERNATIVES DURING PREGNANCY FOR GLOWING SKIN

“The thinking now is that what we thought was UV damage from sun exposure, is in fact Retinoid Dermatitis – the medical name for the irritative side effects of retinol.”
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What Happens to Retinols When They’re Exposed to the Sun?

So why are all the instructions still from the product manufacturers to only apply your retinol in the evening? If there is more and more evidence that retinol does not cause photosensitivity, why does it even matter what time of day we apply them?

Quick and easy answer, retinols are unstable in UV light which means if you apply it and then go outside, your retinol becomes inactive……useless even. Total waste of time and money!! Do yourself a favour and only apply it before bed.

In fact, you may have noticed the packaging for your retinol product is dark and doesn’t let any light through (or at least it should be……don’t buy that product again if this is not the case!) – and now you know why.

3 type of retinol to choose with cotton rounds

Why Should We Still Be Careful With Retinol and Sun Exposure?

Even though we have established that the sun is not something to be feared when we’re using retinol from the perspective of photosensitivity, it is quite rightly something that we still need to be mindful of.

While our skin is adjusting to retinol, both when we first start using them and when we increase the strength, our skin becomes more sensitive and any sunburn could be exaggerated.

Also, for someone to be on retinol, I’m going to go out on a limb and assume that signs of ageing (whether current or in the future) are a concern, therefore doing whatever possible to avoid what is arguably the main cause of skin ageing is worth pursuing.

Lastly, and clearly the most important aspect of all of this, UV rays are the leading cause of skin cancer. Need I say more?

Related Posts:
HOW TO AVOID RETINOL PURGE – 17 TIPS FOR STARTING RETINOL
WHY BODY SKINCARE MATTERS: IT’S TIME TO GIVE YOUR BODY SOME LOVE TOO

“The latest research goes even further – retinol doesn’t affect the minimal dose of UV required to begin to damage the skin, and in fact, it can actually reduce some of the causes of damage that occur with UV exposure.”
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Infographic titled "Tips To Successfully Combine Retinol and Sun Exposure"

What Practical Steps Can We Take With Retinol and Sun Exposure?

Whereas these tips are related to retinol and sun exposure, you can visit my post here to get a LOT more tips and strategies on keeping safe in the summer in general.

Adjust Your Application Frequency: During the summer, when the sun is stronger and your skin may be more exposed, consider adjusting your retinol application frequency.

If you typically use retinol every night, you may want to switch to every other night or a few times a week.
Prioritise Sun Protection: While retinol can provide some benefits in protecting your skin from UV damage, it is not a substitute for proper sun protection. Heck no!

Look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) of 30 or higher and apply it generously to all exposed areas of the skin. Reapply every two hours or more frequently if you are sweating or swimming.
Use Retinol Products with Lower Concentrations: If you find that your skin becomes more sensitive to retinol during the summer, consider switching to a product with a lower concentration.

This can help reduce the risk of irritation or sensitivity while still providing the benefits of retinol.
A cost-effective way to deal with this is to not finish up all of your lower-strength retinol when you increase to the next strength. Hold onto that and bring it back out for your trip to the sun.
Apply Retinol at Night: To minimise any potential interaction between retinol and the sun, continue applying your retinol products strictly at night. This allows the retinol to work on your skin without any interference from UV rays during the day.
Hydrate and Moisturise: Retinol can sometimes lead to dryness or increased sensitivity, especially in the summer heat. Hydrate your skin by drinking plenty of water and use a moisturiser suitable for your skin type to keep it nourished and balanced
Consider Alternatives on Sunny Days: If you have plans for extended sun exposure, such as a beach day or outdoor activities, consider skipping the retinol application on those days, or the night before as it would be.

This reduces the potential for increased sun sensitivity and allows you to focus solely on sun protection.
Opt for Gentle Cleansing: When using retinol during the summer, ensure that your cleansing routine is gentle and non-irritating. Look for mild cleansers that do not strip the skin of its natural oils, as this can exacerbate any sensitivity caused by retinol.
Listen to Your Skin: Pay attention to how your skin reacts to retinol during the summer months. If you experience excessive dryness, redness, or irritation, consider reducing the frequency of use or switching to a milder formulation.

It’s important to prioritise the health and comfort of your skin.
A Vitamin C skincare product works a treat against UV rays too. Have a look at my post on this Drunk Elephant Vitamin C product which goes through this in more detail.
Avoid Other Potential Irritants: In addition to sun exposure, be cautious of other potential irritants that can exacerbate sensitivity when using retinol.

Avoid using harsh exfoliants, alcohol-based toners, or other potentially irritating skincare products that can further compromise your skin’s barrier.

Related posts:
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So, it would seem it’s not our skin that is sensitive to the sun, but the retinol itself. Retinols do not directly cause photosensitivity as previously believed.

The notion that retinol diminishes the skin’s natural defence against UV rays is now understood as a result of retinol-induced irritative side effects, known as Retinoid Dermatitis.

While the increased risk of sunburn during retinol use subsides over time, it is essential to prioritise sun protection by using sunscreen, adjusting retinol application frequency during periods of increased sun exposure, and listening to your skin’s needs.

By following these guidelines, you can enjoy the benefits of retinol while safeguarding your skin from the harmful effects of the sun.

What’s the bottom line? Keep using your retinol and enjoy its benefits for your skin, but don’t forget to give your skin some extra love and protection from the sun. Slather on that sunscreen, seek shade when needed, and listen to your skin’s needs.

With a balanced approach, you can have happy, healthy skin while keeping sunburn and long-term damage at bay.

I’d love to know you’re thoughts on sun exposure when on retinol. How do you adjust your retinol routine during the summer? Let me know in the comments below and don’t forget to sign up for my weekly newsletter.