Retinol Not Working? 17 Reasons You’re Overlooking Its Magic

You started slathering on that fancy retinol cream expecting your wrinkles to vanish and skin to glow overnight like a photoshopped Instagram model. But now, a few weeks later, you’re squinting at the mirror trying to find even a tiny improvement. Is your retinol not working for you? Is it worth keeping it in your skincare routine?

I hate to break it to you, but the skincare companies aren’t exactly giving us realistic expectations about retinol’s snail-paced effects. They make it sound fast and effortless when in reality you need the patience of a rock to see results. But don’t dump that precious bottle of retinol just yet! 

In this post, I want to walk you through the top 18 reasons why that sneaky retinol is likely working better than you think. For example, did you know it can take 3 months before your acne can clear up? And up to 6 months to notice anything anti-ageing related?!

I’ll dish all the ugly truth about realistic timelines. I’ll also cover mistakes like forgetting to apply moisturizer, using it too sporadically, and misreading the dreaded “purge” as a breakout. 

So before you get frustrated that your fine lines or breakouts seem unchanged, read on to troubleshoot why you *think* retinol isn’t working for you! Just imagine how much your older self will thank you for not giving up!

Is Retinol not working for you? Retinol works so think again! Here are 17 reasons why you should keep applying retinol:

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The Benefits Of Retinols

A quick reminder of the benefits of retinoids for a multitude of skin concerns, should you need it:

• It reduces wrinkles by boosting collagen production. This ensures that not just our collagen stores are protected, but also encourages the skin to create more collagen.
  
  
• It fades away dark spots and hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the clumping of melanin in the basal cells, which are responsible for producing the skin’s pigment. 
  
  
• It brightens the complexion by accelerating cellular turnover that helps shed the top layer of dull and pigmented skin cells, making way for newer, healthier skin cells to surface.
  
  
• It shrinks open pores and stops spots from forming through keratinization which prevents dead skin cells from sticking together and clogging pores. 
  
  
• It treats acne by reducing excessive sebum production which helps keep the pores clean and less prone to congestion. This not only prevents the formation of new acne but also promotes a healthier and more balanced complexion.
  
  
• It minimises the appearance of acne scars through accelerated cellular turnover. As new skin cells replace the old ones, the skin’s texture improves, and scars become less noticeable over time
  
  
• It firms and thickens the skin – by promoting a more refined skin texture it makes the epidermis thicker and compacts the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum.
  
  
• It reduces some of the causes of sun damage – more recent research shows it can actually reduce some of the causes of damage that occur with UV exposure in the first place.
  
  
• It supports overall skin health through its antioxidant properties that help protect the skin against free radicals, which can contribute to premature ageing. 
  
  
• It suits nearly everyone and there are very few reasons why anyone should avoid using retinol.
  
  

1. Comparing The Results To Your Friend’s Experience

It’s so weird that so many of us seem to forget we are all unique. No two fingerprints are the same, so it’s not a stretch of the imagination to discover what worked for your friend, well, that same retinol not working for you.

There are a multitude of different variables that could cause a specific product to work perfectly for one person but not for another. We all have a unique medical history and skin features from our genes.

So if you’re finding you’re not getting the same result with a product a friend raves about, don’t assume this active ingredient is a waste of time – have a hunt around for one that suits your skin, or better still, make sure you do some research for what will suit YOU before you buy a product.

2. Not Giving It Long Enough

Thinking your retinol not working after a full week of use? I’m afraid you’re in for a shock……

There are many benefits for our skin with using retinol and the one thing all they all have in common is that it takes some time to see them. It’s not an overnight thing, and to be honest not many skincare products we use to care for our skin are…..but this isn’t even a few weeks thing. 

If you’re using retinol for wrinkles and fine lines, expect it to not be till the 4-month point to notice the difference. If you’re using it for acne, expect to see a change in 3 months. If it’s for hyperpigmentation, you may see a change by 6 months. Large pores? 2 months.

You get the picture…..whatever the purpose for retinol for you, as long as you are applying it the right way, it’s going to be many months before you see the results – even longer if it’s a weaker retinol.

Make a note on your calendar of when you start the retinol, and it’s probably a good idea to make a note of each increase too if you do this. If you feel like throwing in the towel, just check the calendar to see how long it’s been since you started them.

Related posts:
– HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO SEE RESULTS WITH RETINOL?

3. Not Noticing The Gradual Change

Ever had someone tell you that your child suddenly looks so much older? Ever had anyone tell you how long your hair has got?

If we’re always looking at our child or hair in the mirror, we’re not going to notice the growth. It’s the same concept with retinol……if we’re constantly looking at our faces, we’re not going to notice the gradual change.

Now I’m not suggesting you stop looking at your face when you start retinol and then do a grand reveal with a mirror in 3 months, but use photos instead.

Take a photo (without makeup obvs) with good lighting when you start and you can refer back to it at different stages.

Take further photos of each stage to see the change. This can be a real morale booster for you to see the progress!

4. Setting Your Expectations Too High

Retinol is an amazing skin care ingredient that is a gold standard in the skincare industry, but it’s not a time machine! If you’re in your 50’s, I’m sorry to say your face will not look like it did when you were a teenager.

If you have deep wrinkles and prominent furrows, these are not going to be completely eliminated by retinol – they will get less obvious, but they won’t go completely.

I’m sure you’re thinking what’s the point in retinol then, but I can assure you……it will do a better job at reducing their appearance than any other skincare product on the market. 

If you feel this is your situation, you might want to consider the creme de la creme of retinoids – Tretinoin. You can read about a typical first-year experience using this product here.

Related posts:
– FIRST YEAR STARTING TRETINOIN: WHAT TO EXPECT WITH THIS POWERFUL ANTI-AGER

5. Thinking No Side Effects Are A Sign Of The Retinol Not Working

If you’ve done your research into retinol before embarking on them, you most likely have come across information about the starting side effects.

Retinol irritation, purging, retinol burn, “The Uglies” – there are so many names for them and so much written about them.

So many of us assume that this is an inevitable rite of passage, but the good news is that is not always the case. 

You may have quite hardy skin where nothing seems to cause problems. You may have found on your first purchase the perfect retinol for your skin. Either way, if you have no beginning side effects that is a bonus.

Having no side effects is not a sign that the retinol is not working!

Related posts:
– RETINALDEHYDE VS. RETINOL – CHOOSING THE BEST FOR YOUR SKIN
– SIDE EFFECTS OF USING RETINOL DEMYSTIFIED: YOUR ULTIMATE COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

6. Your Retinol Not Working For Your Acne

If you have been started on a prescription-strength retinoid by a dermatologist for acne, unfortunately, this alone may not be enough to clear it up completely.

It does a great job with acne by dealing with the clogging of the pores and reducing inflammation in the skin that leads to outbreaks, but for some, topical retinoids alone are not enough.

If this is the case for you, you should go back to your dermatologist to discuss further treatment to work in conjunction with the retinoid. This is completely normal and does not mean the retinol is not working.

The chances of getting acne under control without a retinol are very slim, even with other treatments.

Just a quick mention at this point: if you have a problem with acne and have bought an Over The Counter (OTC) retinol to sort it out, just be aware that these products are not, and have never been intended to resolve acne.

OTC retinols are cosmetic products that are marketed for fine lines, wrinkles and sun damage and there is no evidence yet that they work on acne. 

That’s not to say OTC retinols won’t work on your spots – plenty of people have had success with them and their spots – but be aware that if it doesn’t work for you, it’s a sign you need to move on to something stronger and see a dermatologist (first port of call in the UK – a GP)

7. Not Considering The Starting Condition Of Your Skin

If your skin is in good condition when you start retinol, you may not see a massive change. After all, there won’t be much for the retinol to improve on.

And before you ask, yes it certainly is worth using retinol. There will be improvements, however subtle, in the texture of your skin and fine lines etc, but the most important thing to remember is it will be preventative.

Long-term consistent use in conjunction with other sun-protective behaviours will minimize sun damage. They prevent the destruction of collagen in the deeper layers of skin. Finally, they can reduce the chance of pre-skin cancer cells

Future you will thank you!

Related posts:
– WHEN TO START USING RETINOL: THE MAGIC AGE

8. Not Using Strong Enough Retinol Or Using It Frequently Enough

You most likely know by now that retinol comes in different strengths. OTC retinols are weaker in strength than the retinols you get on prescription, because it has to convert to the active form of retinoic acid to do their job (which is what the prescription-strength retinols already are).

Even more confusingly OTC retinols come in a variety of strengths, so if you’re not noticing any change after 3 months of continuous use, it may well be that the retinol you have been using isn’t strong enough.

On a similar note, if you have not seen any change to your skin after 3 months of retinol use and you have not been using it daily, it may mean you need to increase the frequency you are using it. 

You may well have been using it alternate days, or every third day, diligently following advice to avoid starting side effects, but you can safely increase this without any problems now.

Related posts:
– MEDIK8 CRYSTAL RETINAL 3 REVIEW IN FOCUS: CRYSTAL CLEAR RESULTS

9. Not Using The Retinol Consistently

This isn’t the same as not using it frequently enough, this is describing someone not using it consistently – use for 3 days in a row, 3 days off, use for 2 days in a row, 4 days off, use for 1 day, 1 week off……using it sporadically when you remember!

This is quite common with skincare (heck, with most things in life!), but unfortunately, retinols have to be used consistently to work effectively.

Of course, this doesn’t mean to say in this scenario it needs to be used consistently daily, just consistently. If your skin can only manage every 3rd day, then you must use it consistently every 3rd day. If you can manage every other day, consistently use it every other day – this will increase the chances of getting the desired results.

Related posts:
– HOW TO APPLY RETINOL FOR BEGINNERS – THE ULTIMATE GUIDE

10. Not Using A Moisturiser

If you feel you’re fine lines and wrinkles are not improving, or even worse, have got deeper, it could be you’re not using moisturiser properly.

Retinol is a really drying product, particularly in the early days. As the skin dries out, the fine lines and wrinkles give the appearance of looking worse….especially around the eyes.

The good news is retinol isn’t causing fine lines and wrinkles, but just making what you have got more obvious – a bit like a dried fruit! Serious dry skin issues!

That’s why moisturisers are so important. They plump up the skin cells by pulling moisture to the top layers of the skin, thereby smoothing out the fine lines and wrinkles

Remember that moisturisers, such as hyaluronic acid, are also valuable in getting you through the beginning phases of retinol. They really are vital!

Related posts:
– KIEHL’S ULTRA FACIAL CREAM REVIEW – THE RAW TRUTH ABOUT THIS POPULAR MOISTURISER

11. Allowing The Retinol To Be Inactivated

The biggie that most people know about is UV light, but in case you are not aware, sunlight deactivates retinol. That is why every single instruction you read tells you to apply it before bed and NOT in the morning.

We’ve all done it – read a product’s instructions and then forget to use it correctly a few weeks in. Retinol products are not cheap, so save your pennies and don’t think in the morning “I’ll shove it on now – I’m sure it will still do something” because you forgot to apply it the night before. It won’t!

The other main retinol “deactivator” is the spot-treating Benzoyl Peroxide. If you’re using retinol for the acne benefits, you may already be using this ingredient as well, so watch out for it.

There’s a lot of information on the internet about salicylic acid and retinol. Despite what you might read it is ok to use them together but with some provisos. Here is a fantastic article from beautifulwithbrains.com all about using the two ingredients together if you want to know more.

Related posts:
– RETINOL AND SUN EXPOSURE: HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY NAVIGATE THIS FOR FLAWLESS SKIN

12. Not Resolving The Struggle With Side Effects

Some medical conditions cause those using retinol to have a really tough time. Eczema, rosacea, psoriasis and those with very sensitive skin are skin conditions where it may be very difficult to tolerate retinol.

Just to be clear, retinol is not contraindicated in these scenarios, but it may well trigger a serious case of retinol irritation. 

If this is you, there are ways and means of using retinol if you’re set on it, and I do advise you to read this article on avoiding retinol side effects. Perhaps consider employing each tip, to begin with, and drop them slowly one by one as your skin accepts the retinol is here to stay.

Related posts:
– SIDE EFFECTS OF USING RETINOL DEMYSTIFIED: YOUR ULTIMATE COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

13. Using Retinol As A Spot Treatment

If you are reaching for that retinol serum when a zit shows its ugly head, is your retinol not working? It certainly won’t…..it will do diddly squat! You may well be aware that retinol is great for spots, but it is not an “as required” spot treatment.

It needs a long consistent amount of time to build up in the skin. Retinol is a “cell communicator” and it needs time to communicate to your skin cells how to behave to change the way they work.

14. Thinking Retinol Has Caused Pores To Become More Obvious

Sometimes the pores on your face can appear larger when you first start using retinol – exactly the opposite of what we’re told retinol can achieve. Why?!

Before starting retinol, there was an uneven layer of dead skin cells on top of the pores which sort of disguised them to the eye. Once retinol removes that top layer and smooths the new skin out, those pores just become more obvious to us.

Keep going with it – in time the retinol will minimise the oiliness and reduce pore clogging to make them appear gone!

15. Thinking Retinol Has Caused Your Acne To Get Worse

Do you consider retinol not working for acne because your acne has got worse? Never fear as that is completely normal!

Good old purging!! Yes, it has got to come up on this list!

A brief rundown of what it is: due to the retinol causing an increased turnover in the skin cells, any acne you have lingering under the surface of the skin will pop up all at once.

To you, this appears like a worsening of the acne, but in reality, it’s all the spots already brewing “purging” out of your skin – it just gives me visions of the exorcist!  

The good news is these “purged” spots heal much faster than ordinary acne, and even better news is this process only lasts for a few weeks – 4 to 6 tops. 

Fun fact: the phrase “retinol purge” is not a medical one. It was coined by the skincare industry!

Related posts:
– HOW TO AVOID RETINOL PURGE – 17 TIPS FOR STARTING RETINOL

16. Thinking Retinol Has Caused Your Face To Get Oilier

I’ve said a fair few times that retinol is drying on your skin, so why the heck does your skin look oilier?

If you are someone who has oily skin, it very much depends on the form your retinol product comes in: gel/serum or cream form.

Those with oily skin generally tend to suit gels and serums as these are faster absorbing and therefore spend less time on the surface of your skin where it would make it look shiny and oily.

17. Thinking Retinol Has Caused Hyperpigmentation To Get Worse

Here’s another one: we know retinol is meant to help with hyperpigmentation, but that might be looking worse for you. Again….why?

Hyperpigmentation can reside in different layers of skin. If your hyperpigmentation is in the outer layer of your skin, that’s a simple fix for the retinol, but if it’s on the deeper layer of skin that’s going to be more noticeable when the outer layer of skin is smoothed out by the retinol.

Inevitably that will take quite some time to resolve, and there are occasions where the retinol may just not manage to clear it completely.

If the bothersome hyperpigmentation doesn’t clear for you, and you are confident you have done everything you can with the retinol including a prescription-strength product, you may want to consider laser treatment.

Just remember that retinol is still worth it as it prevents further hyperpigmentation.

Phew, we covered a lot of ground! Now you know all the sneaky reasons why perfectly decent retinol can sometimes seem downright useless.

I hope learning why you only think your retinol not working will inspire you to stick with the process. Just imagine future you at 80, still getting asked for ID because your skin looks so freaking fabulous!

But that beauty magic won’t happen overnight, no matter what the airbrushed models in ads try to claim. It takes a ton of patience and realistic expectations to reap retinol’s rewards.

Maybe bookmark this post for those times you catch your reflection and are ready to rage quit your routine. Refer back to see if one of these 18 issues explains why your skin seems unchanged.

And hey, if after 6 months of consistent, proper use you still see zero improvement, then it may be time to try a stronger prescription of retinol. But give OTC formulas a fair shake first before throwing in the face towel.

Before going to admire your ever-so-subtly improving skin in the mirror, why don’t you sign up for my fortnightly newsletter? I’ll keep you updated when a new post comes out.